Travels with Forty Roses

Wednesday, 9 December 2020

Lalique & St Louis

The history of the paperweight is as obscure as the history of glass making itself. What we do know is that glassmaking can be traced to the 14^th and 15^th centuries BC. The paperweight, on the other hand, probably originated in Venice but gained popularity during the Austrian Industrial Fair held in Vienna in 1845. The Venetian glass maker Pietro Bigaglia is credited with using what is called a millefiori design and, as his work was displayed at the Vienna Fair the beauty of these glass objects was coveted by those who saw them. A Frenchman who was attending the grand Fair and who was associated with the Nationale des Arts et Metier and a glass expert was so impressed he brought some to Paris where they were introduced to the great and well-established glass factories of France, Clichy, St. Louis, Baccarat. Lalique, Daum and Pantin would follow in the manufacture of these sought after and collectible objects. Millefiori literally means a thousand flowers as the most beautiful paperweights were made from multicoloured glass rods cut and shaped into intricate designs and surrounded by a clear glass globe. The French manufacturers became proficient and highly expert in creating these objects and today the early manufacturing period from 1845 to 1860 is known as the Classical Period. Anything after that is classed as the Renaissance period. To find a Classical period paperweight is to experience the joy of a true collector. They are rare. Extremely so. Collette was a collector and I have seen photographs of her surrounded by a stunning collection. The Decorative Arts Museum in Paris has a display that I photographed 2 years ago. They are confined to a secure display case under glass and certainly are the most beautiful array I have ever seen. During our Sojourn in NYC, I used to drop into a little shop that was solely devoted to the collector of these expensive objet d’art. The gentleman who owned or at least ran the place came to recognize me and we would talk about the various pieces he had located. Naturally, these were mostly of the classical period so far too expensive for me.

But I digress. We took a trip to the Lalique museum in the Alsace where most of the great glass makers of France originated. On the way there I noticed a small sign for St Louis. Not realizing at this point most of the major glass manufacturers had roots in the Alsace or nearby area, I thought we should visit St. Louis as well. So, there are photos of both the Lalique museum and the working St Louis factory.

Lalique was amazing. René Lalique had an eye for detail and particularly the detail of the natural world like no other. He produced glassware and stunning jewelry. He also dreamt up sumptuous showcases for the greatest purveyors of perfume in the fabulous bottles he produced for the products. The bottle has since become the of conveyor of values and symbols. Through the choice of shape, colour and graphics it transports the user to an imaginary world. The overall designs aimed to give coherence and resonance to names, bottles and perfumes by the great makers such as Guerlain, Molinard, Worth, Jean de Pays, Roger & Gallet and many others. Of the bottles on display, so many were recognizable, from the dressing tables of multitudes of women who have enjoyed the romance of scent in a beautiful bottle. Mass -production was the future of glass making, a point that Lalique thoroughly understood. Over and above the shapes of the bottles Rene̒ Lalique paid particular attention to the stopper. Instead of simply being a necessity it took pride of place, the heart of the motif. He was a man with an amazing eye for detail and these perfume bottle creations enabled him to honour woman and the flora that so inspired him.

A tireless observer, profoundly curious about the tiniest detail, he did not attempt to copy, imitate or stylize. He created by transforming. His thorough knowledge of ancient art, his unequalled understanding of nature and his teeming imagination enabled him to develop his own style.

Of course, this trip took place in October, well before confinement. We have been consumed with caring for Oscar who became terribly ill suddenly. It now appears, after 6 weeks of being a truly sick cat, that his symptoms have evaporated, to a significant degree. Our veterinary is not giving us all clear yet and we are just cautiously optimistic. We wait and see and always hope for the best for our little travel buddy and dear companion.

From the St Louis Museum attached to the working Factory

Array of New Paperweights at St. Louis

Example of Millefiori Method

St Louis Created this Style of Layered and Woven glass

Pure Colour

Carved and Coloured Glass a St. Louis Specialty to this Day

Attractive, Collectible Green

Massive Vase to Large to Carry Home!

Giant Glass Chandelier in Lobby of St Louis

Trip Crew: Helen, Chris, Liz, Dave, John

Example of the master work of René Jules Lalique, born on April 6, 1860 in Champagne on the Marne, and died on May 1, 1945, A French master glassmaker and jeweler.

Every Example of his Work Exemplifies his Attention to Nature's Details

Carved and Molded Examples

The Glassworks Trail. Once Part of Germany

Thistles in Glass

Perfume Bottles Brought Fame and Fortune and Appreciation

Bottle Designed for Coty

An Aunt had the Turquoise Bottle. Where is it Now?

Array of Bottles

Elegant is the Word

Seed Pods

Watch Design

Superb Art Deco Design

Winter Scene in Glass

Dogs Running in Glass

Dragonfly Pin

On the Christmas Wish List!

Delicate Dragonflies

Are These Bees Real?

Cuff Bracelet

Brooch of Gold, Diamonds & Exquisite Design

Fine Example of Millefiori & Ribbon Design

Millefiori at Its Best!

Lily of the Valley Imbedded in Glass

Sunday, 18 October 2020

Back to France

Strasbourg. . . a quite different city from Paris, but beautiful in its own way, despite a drought ridden summer in France. Canals were exceptionally low, weediness prevailed as there had been little or no traffic throughout the canals during this year’s early confinement. The VNF (the organization that manages the French waterways) were unable to begin canal cleaning so boats that did move faced issues. Our boat was moved from Paris to Strasbourg by two wonderful friends along with their 2 cats, Cosette and Hugo. We know they had a challenging trip and are deeply grateful they came to Paris after we left in June and travelled the many kilometres to our current location: The Port de Plaisance at Parc le Citadelle just off the Rhine. Strasbourg is right on the German border so we can shop for baguettes in France and sausage in Germany. Both France and Germany are seeing a rise in virus infections and in France, in many of the large cities, tough measures are invoked again. Here the infections are lower, and we have not hit the High Alert designation of other urban centers. But we are being extremely cautious. Our appointment for flu shots are scheduled this coming week.

Strasbourg is an EU Parliament city where the government moves from Brussels at least once a month for 12 plenary sessions. The Parliament buildings are quite modern and located in a beautiful setting along a waterway as the city is circled by canals. Being a university city, the student population is large and like other similar locations students are certainly not as careful as they ought to be during this pandemic. We steer clear of the most populous student hangouts which seem to be bars and restaurants.

Thanks to friends who returned to the USA we share the use of their car, a used Renault that we who share, drive very carefully as the clutch is possibly on the verge of demise. It has been a wonderful loan and as our friends who brought the boat are here along with another couple who have their own car, we can see something of this beautiful area safely, in our car bubbles.

Yesterday we celebrated Canadian Thanksgiving and shared some traditional treats with our neighbours. However, we followed the Ontario /Canadian rules and dined on our own along with Oscar who ate more chicken than we did. Sadly, no pumpkin pie or cranberries but a tasty squash, our favourite Brussel sprouts, and a delicious lemon tart for dessert. Today we enjoy the leftovers with no cooking involved.

As John and Oscar joined me here on September 16, we have taken several little trips with more planned. We make them easy day trips as home is here aboard Forty Roses. The Black Forest High Road to Baden-Baden, the upper portion of the Alsace Wine Route {the lower portion to follow), the pretty town of Saverne, the Lalique and St Louis Glass museums and surrounding countryside being the primary trips. Naturally, I have photos of most of these trips. Forgive the multitude of flower images but they are too hard to resist. Never have I seen such glorious geraniums.

For those of you good readers who have expressed concern for our health and well-being we say this. We do have a couple of plans if things here become intolerable. We either close the boat speedily and return to Canada or we move the boat to a yard in NL, which is not an arduous trip. There we will have its bottom cleaned and repainted, as being in the water since November 2016, it is due. We will then head home from Amsterdam.

All the little Villages Along the Alsace Wine Route have Delightful Flower Displays

We wandered along the roads and enjoyed a delicious lunch in Andlau

Geranium Tiers

Yet to be Harvested

These wagon loads of grapes were being inspected at the wine cooperative in Ribeauville. A delicious Riesling is produced here.

The Symbol of France- The Gallic Rooster

A Wooden Flautist

Village on our way to Baden Baden

Looking Downstream

One of Innumerable Black Forest Cuckoo Clocks

The Rhine Valley of Plenty

Oscar on Lookout

One of the Canals Encircling Strasbourg

Grandmother Mitchell's Restored Umbrella

(Peps in Paris completed a beautiful Restoration. They had never seen a handle like it)

How to Use a Few Wine Bottles

Autumn Flowers in my Boat Boxes

Thanksgiving Dessert, Not Made by Me

French Dahlias for the Table

Thursday, 4 June 2020

Living Déconfinement

The process of déconfinement here in Paris was a phased approach. Because we are a Red Zone, meaning a very high number of COVID-19 cases, restrictions here were greater as they were in other Red Zones, primarily in the North and North East. Some departments have experienced no COVID-19 cases and others were overwhelmed. Those were in the first phases labelled Green Zones. As of June 2 we are all green or at least greenish and many of the restrictions lifted throughout France.

As of May 29, Paris Parks were finally opened, and people did flock to the green grass and who could blame them? However, we have been without the requirement of attestations since May 11 so social distancing and masks have been prevalent throughout the month. Most people are respectful and concerned with transmission but as in any densely & heavily populated city the shock of people on the street was significant. We all rather enjoyed quiet Paris. Many residents had left the city and those left could go about the essentials of our business during lock down with very little contact. Now folks are back at work, the streets are heavily travelled with cyclists as more cycling lanes and streets are accommodating bicycles with no cars. Hurrah for Anne Hidalgo the Mayor as she saw the need since the Metro is overcrowded on the best of days. Shops are open with strict guidelines, Écoles Maternelles, offices, with employees who can work at home still continuing to do so, and of course all shops with groceries or bakeries, butchers etc. Additionally, as of yesterday June 2 cafes and restaurants with outdoor spaces in terraces or with street space are open. Tables are spaced out at least a metre (not far enough for me). Masks and hand sanitizer dispensers are everywhere. Masks are a must on all forms of transport and shops. Hand sanitizer stations are at every bus stop and Metro station and every store entry or payment station. Now it is up to all of us to remember that the virus is around and about us. It did not disappear. We have simply managed to slow the spread through strict adherence to the lockdown rules. Social distancing and masks and excellent hygiene are the only way to hold it at bay.

We are readying the boat for departure and leave Paris on Sunday June 7. We must fly to Frankfurt from Charles de Gaulle with Lufthansa then on to Toronto direct. We are keeping fingers crossed that all goes according to plan.

In the meantime, our friends are slowly departing from the marina to new summer locations as the VNF has allowed pleasure boat traffic on the canals from June 2 as well. It is bittersweet to see the great exodus of boats depart the écluse and turn right or left on the Seine. We had so looked forward to cruising to Strasbourg in April. However, by the greatest of good fortune our friends Chris and Liz, already onboard their boat in Strasbourg, will arrive in Paris the day after we leave and, after a few days, begin that journey on our behalf aboard Forty Roses. We are so grateful for their help. We hope they enjoy her as much as we do. And coquette Cosette and handsome Hugo will accompany them so the ship will not be without a cat.

We look forward to our return and the wonderful life we enjoy here.

And right now, we look forward to coming home to family and friends, our beautiful house in the woods, the lake, the clean air and freedom of fewer people, my very late spring planting of the garden, 14 days of Quarantine, and especially Canada Day this year. All of us have been through a very strange time with much more ahead of us. We feel the need to connect with our home turf and surroundings and to count our blessings.

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Word Just in This Morning: Our Verdict From the Dutch Court is in : We won. The Court Rejected All Cornelissen/Euroship Claims for € 100,000 plus " Extra Work". He Owes us Court Costs and €'s for Items not Provided. We are Feeling Pretty Darn Fine!