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Sunday 29 October 2017

No Flower Pots, Cats or Sunsets




This Sunday morning, as I sit in the wheelhouse pondering the blog, the cathedral bells are sounding all over Auxerre. To some it’s a bother and intrusion to a sleep-in, but I love the deep, rich, pealing of this early morning event. Every bell is slightly different, timing too; the breeze muffles some or pushes their sound clearly in our direction. The tolling comes in waves as the bells for St Germain Abbaye, St Etienne, St. Pierre en Vallée and the Church of St. Eusèbe founded in the 7th century all seem to be timed a trifle differently.  And of course, the Clock Tower located in the Old Town that also chimes brings its own music.  So, we are very much cognizant this morning of the ‘fall back” time change. Is it not a delightful morning to “fall back” and “gain” that hour?  Although, early darkness makes one think of wintry dishes slow-cooked in the oven. Possibly roast chicken or a pot au feu?
Now the bells have ceased chiming and all the good people are listening to sermons and liturgy it has come to me that the blog this week ought to dwell a bit on practical things. Our friend Eric in BC asked some good questions about tools and I think this is the time to show off John’s pride and joy. There is a great deal to maintain on a boat. Despite being tied up for the winter the engine must be “walked” regularly, as too the generator. The endless job of cleaning “murmuration starling” deposits off a white deck takes both of us. When there is early morning mist and dew we can easily swab down the decks with the big brush, but on dry days the hose is essential and at least once a week vinegar and a bucket along with hosing.
This week we are dealing with canvas covers and insulation for our non-thermal-pane windows. On boats, or at least on this one, any opening port hole, hatch or sliding window is non-thermal and tends to sweat. By neatly placing a sunbrella-type fabric lined with an insulator over the window and held on with a magnetic strip we eliminate the moisture. Gerard, the Canvas Guy came to measure and discuss and between our poor French and his similar English we had a very hilarious time but got through it. Emails to Gerard are “tickity- tickitys” which in my view is a great term! We also turned him on to Google Translate which he loved.
Filters for the generator and engine must be checked for water and drained or changed as well as full oil changes about once every 300 running hours for the engine; the water system needs new filters too every 3 months. The solar panels must be cleaned and ready to accept sunlight. Gray water tanks need pumping and rinsing for re-pump. Our electrical plug-in for the winter is metered just like home but water is not. I won’t mention all the vacuuming, laundry, dusting, moping etc. of the non-engine room parts as that’s just life.
However, don’t think maintenance is all we are up to! We have our walking, swimming and cycling along with neighbours to visit, cooking experimentation, sightseeing to get on with and French lessons. Now we have a real teacher in Vanessa who comes every Tuesday and is a wonderful chatty woman with several cats and who lives with her Mama and Grand-Mere in a very large house on the canal Nivernais. One of our neighbours has another young woman, Muriel, who converses with her and when we walk together we try to speak only in French but often fail! Along with workbook lessons and Bescherelles Complete Guide to Conjugating plus internet lessons I believe small progress has been achieved!
But the best news this week is John’s new bike! I’m afraid I am left with the little work-horse folding electric and he has moved on up to a sleek French Road Bike. All stylish grey and black. New gear for riding, right down to the gloves and special lights. One really cannot ride here in France unless you have some style; and John has succumbed. Over 65 km yesterday! Bring on the fromage.

And we found a lithograph for the wall that we both love…a rare find indeed. Has only happened once before in 26 years but that’s another story.



The Case


Layer # 1; Large Piece Elsewhere?


Layer #2: Another Piece ??


A Tool for Every Task: John calls it his Best Purchase Ever


Yes, One Could Eat Off the Floor


Wrapped Part is the Noise Insulated Generator & Engine Exhaust, Metal Box is Generator and the Red is the Kabola Furnace


Top Airconditioning and Below the Engine


Accumulator Air Tank and Reservoir for Engine Coolant etc. 


Getting Ready


Almost Ready


Locked and Chained


Gloves are Essential



Off the Deck



Ready to Roll



We Finally Found a Litho We Both Love: George Hosotte, Soleil Avant la Pluie


Sunday 22 October 2017

Out and About


The other day we rented a tiny Twingo made by Renault and took off for a day of sightseeing. It turned out upon arrival at the rental agency, that it was brand new, with only 10 km clocked, so it had a fresh, new car smell.  Heather and Kent, a couple that we met, the very first day we entered Auxerre (pronounced oserre for those of you who have asked.) and who have spent 7 years exploring the canals, sent us a list of interesting things to check out.  Their list, plus those things we had already noted as exploration points, should keep us busy along with all the other activities we have undertaken. We visited Clamcey. The earliest mention of the city was under the name Clamiciacus, a possession of the Bishops of Auxerre in a bequest by Pallade, Bishop of Auxerre in 634. So, I suppose we may call this an ancient town. It is the capital of an arrondissement in the department of Niévre and located at the conjoining of the Yonne and the Beuvron rivers on the Canal du Nivernais. 

We have found, that given the air-draft of our boat, as we suspected, we cannot make the trip down the canal Nivernais. So  we plan to see as much of this beautiful area as possible on foot, bicycle and intermittent car trips. The Morvan Forest is close by and for centuries the timber from this massive forest was utilized to build and meet requirements of Paris. Huge Flottage de Bois traversed the river and canal systems. Now the Morvan is a delightful scenic and outdoor area sought by campers, fishermen and vacationers of all descriptions. The town of Clamcey is a protected area due to its very old medieval village centre and is home to artists, where they enjoy visitors and sales, especially during the high season months.

We moved on to the hilltop village of Vézelay. The first traces of civilization of human settlement in this beautiful old village date from 2300-2200BC. The relics, or bones of Mary Magdalene, supposedly reside in the crypt in the magnificent abbey, or so an Abbot in 1037 convinced the population. Hence, the hilltop town became a place of intense importance and pilgrimage. In 1058, it became a major starting point for the Way of St James to Santiago de Compostela. It remains an important pilgrimage location and a beginning for some people, to the arduous Compostela trail.
All that aside, the views from the ramparts are stunning, the winding old streets to the pinnacle and location of the Abbey are full of surprising twists and turns.


And of course, the region is famous for its Chablis wines. The village of Chablis is a few minutes away from us and all the famous and not so famous domains are represented there. Tonight, we are drinking with dinner a Domaine des Genèves, Stéphane Aufrère à Fleys and it is simply delicious. All crafted less than 4 km from the boat, with roasted vegetables grown within the same radius and a loaf from grains cultivated in the nearby fields, the flour milled in Vincelles, 7 miles away, and baked across the canal.

Golden Leaves



A Rescue Pratice


An Unexpectd Dunking ( note the "Patient" holding on?)

Drip Dry


Safe at Last


Vineyards


As Far as You Can See


Stealing a Few Grapes. . .Quickly


Overcast Day but Golden Vineyards



The Greenest Green of Fall Wheat


Eye Catching Geraniums


Beautifully Sculpted World War II Memorial


 Limestone  and Ivy


Street in Clamcey


He visits Every Day for Lunch


Politely and Patiently


Large number of timbered structures survive and have been continuously occupied. 



Well Worn Steps



Tiny Blue Tit Struck a Window. .      Despite Warming he Sadly Succumbed


St. Martin de Clamcey and Blue Sky




Along the Nivernais



Comfortable Cottage


Not for our Boat


Glad to See it on Foot


Stone Wall Ferns


And Mosses


What's Behind this Old Door?


Roses

For My Dear Sister


Take Back Roads for a Chance Encounter with a Beautiful Array of Buildings



Vèzelay


Climbing to the Top


The Mairie


Window Sill Sitter


Inside the Abbey: This section constructed from 1165 to 1215


This over Roman ruins  beginning 1120


Gargoyles and Archeology Dig in Background



Rooks Make Their Home in the Towers and these spaces in the Wall


Could it Scare Away Visitors?


Old Formidable and a Pilgrimage Destination: Vèzelay Abbey


View from the Ramparts


Morvan Forest in the Distance


Fields of Fall Wheat and Golden Vineyards


Grapes Cultivated below the Ramparts since Roman Times


Charolais Cattle are Cultivated in this Area and are the White Dots in a Green Field


Limestone Towers and Vines


Square Headed Nails



Always Red Geraniums


Patterns


Golden Evening Light


Cosmos Colour