Travels with Forty Roses

There is something to be said about beautiful objects. What strikes me in viewing all these things is the creativity of humans. The imagination of artists seems boundless , exciting and astounding. The skill and craftsmanship of so many of these artifacts and object d’art only encourage me to seek out more or investigate more fully how they were created and by whom. The museum of Beaux Arts was a place I visited thinking merely to have a look about, see what was there and skip away for a long walk in sunshine. I found myself first in an exhibition of both ancient and current Japanese items and alongside, associated work by French artists who were influenced by Japanese craftsmanship and artistry. Taking a wrong turn in this huge labyrinth of a building I became caught up in centuries of “beaux-art” items ranging from furniture to glassware, porcelain and pottery. A came upon a display of some of my favourite objects. Paperweights. It is too late to acquire these old and beautiful pieces displayed here. But there was a time in the 60’s that one could buy a Clichy or a St Louis. However, back then some essential thing, like the mortgage,obliterated any thought of that kind of purchase.

Entire rooms have been donated to display particular styles from centuries and decades past. The collections range through continuous loop TV commercials from the earliest days of television ( some are hilariously funny and risqué given North American standards) to the styles of fauteuil over the centuries and the rationale for the designs, (the style and size of women’s dresses) and much, much more. Before I realize the entire day was consumed and I was far from seeing it all. Another day!

But the big news this month is an acquisition. Some of you probably know about it already. No, it’s not more Blue Menu Crunchy Peanut Butter. As we live on a boat and our space is limited we do try to expel something, if ,for instance , we buy a new pair of shoes an old pair must be donated. Lately this has been a trifle more difficult and in the case of our latest purchase there have been necessary accoutrements procured that do take up some space. We really have been thinking about this for a couple of years and finally began the negotiation in November. It has not been an easy commission either and we had to call upon a French broker to finalize the arrangement. But in the end we made a new friend and have obtained a real prize. Oscar joined us last Saturday after a 3 hour road trip back from St. Maur, a small town not too far from Bourges. We had made the trip 2 weeks prior to take his little carry basket to Madame Crespin, the breeder, so he would be familiar with it when we came to pick him up. That was successful as all 5 of the litter of Chartreux kittens played in and out of it for 2 weeks . Oscar only made one peep on the drive back to Paris. Accompanying us was our wonderful neighbour and friend Charlette who lives across the canal on her boat. She was our Cat Broker from November and ensured we were able to obtain Oscar as Madame Crespin was uncertain if a boat would be a good place for a cat. Once all had been explained and she met us alongside Charlette she saw that all would be well. And so we have a Chartreux. He is silver grey, calm and smart, a real player as the French say, and a breed with loads of history. They probably originated in Syria and were brought back by the Crusaders. The term "Chartreux" appears in the eighteenth century to describe the fur of blue-gray cats, appreciated by furriers! At the beginning of the 20th century, there was an interest in the Chartreux as a race in its own right, as it had practically disappeared.

It was primarily two sisters, Christine & Suzanne Léger, who rescued this true French breed before the second World War. They are a robust cat with a smile so that they are sometimes called “ le chat souriant “, or the smiling cat. They are a quiet breed that chirp rather than meow and are considered calm and good voyagers. That was the primary reason for searching out the Chartreux.

Right now he is behaving true to all we have read and heard from Madame Crespin and the LOOF society of France which regulates cat breeds. He has met all our visitors calmly and affectionately, he plays hard, eats well and sleeps like the baby he is. Pictures are added for your introduction.

Storks in Flight as seen in Japanese Display of Fabric at the Beaux Arts Museum

Stylised

Graceful Realism

From the Beaux Arts Museum toward the Tuileries

Interesting Museum holding Object d'Art of Every Description

Practical Articles too. These are Sugar Shakers. Why have they disappeared?

Decorated Panels; Handpainted

That Once Lined Fine Rooms

Across the River the D'Orsay, the spires of St. Clothilde Basilica and the Golden Dome of Les Invalides

View Toward the Louvre

Exquisite Example of Early Women's Compacts

Tiny Perfume bottles

Elegant China

More Clocks

Neo-classical Portable Tea Set

Another Delicate Clock Decoration

A Very Fine Pair of Pugs!

Sliver Polish Required

Napoleon I Throne ( Well One of Them)

A Great Cup for Bridge Players

Not to be Dropped

Examples of Opaline Glassware

Handcarved Panels

Who Was the Model?

Spectacular Colours

My Favourite Paperweight: They Gained Popularity in Mid 19th Century

St. Louis, Baccarat and Clichy Paperweights

All Highly Sought After

Epicenter of Manufacture was France

Multicoloured Pocket Flasks

Rose de Clichy 1849

Refined Decorative Bowl

Casque with Enclosed Bottles

Two Mounted Police Officers Patrolling on a Quiet January Day

Left to right , Madame Crespin, John and our Facilitator Charlette

Resting After A Long Ride

Checking out Every Inch of Forty Roses III

Have Not Thought About Cat Proofing the Cords!

Out of Steam

Loves what's Inside

Watching the Cook

Finally Finished

Adam, Joshua and Cat in Basket

Upstairs

Loves Paper Wrapping

Modern Cat with Cell Phone

Checking Printer Workings

Enjoying the Sun

Our Captain, Our Captain!

True to his breed he has already attached himself to us, been sociable with a multitude of guests who came bearing gifts to see him, and has learned to fetch and retrieve, with a little phone time in between.

With all the museums and chateaux we are visiting , we see many French clocks. . .there appears to be an obsession with clocks. Hence, we are well aware that Tempus Fugit!

Here we are in 2019 already. The boat is still floating, the peanut butter supply is being maintained and the use of it, by other than the Squirrel, is being carefully rationed. Visitors have come and gone as has Christmas and New Year and we are expecting our next batch of visitors during February and March. We are searching now for a safe and secure mooring for Forty Roses as she summers alone. We plan to check out a berth in Soissons this weekend. We vow, as it is January, to eat less delicious cheese, have fewer Sunday croissants and cut out baguettes altogether. John is swimming four of seven days at his pool and bicycling to and fro, while I do the old walking thing and search out phenomena we simply must see. We spent a lovely New Year’s Eve with our neighbours and celebrated in their wonderfully French way with foie gras on little toasts and much champagne. Children and adults welcomed we Canadians, and we did not miss the crowds and the Gilet Jaunes on the Champs d’Elysee. We know the light show was spectacular as were the fireworks but the crowds did not appeal.

So we began the year with a visit, on the Premier or first Sunday, to the country house of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte in Rueil-Mal, called Malmaison. ( We should explain here that on the Premier Sunday of each month public buildings that usually charge a fee are open and free to all. A wonderful idea). It is a Metro ride and a navette trip outside Paris, but well worth it. Despite being January, the roses cut back and nothing green in the massive garden, the house was well worth the trip. We plan to head back in the spring and wish we were around for the rose bloom in May.

Josephine bought the house, well outside Paris, while Napoleon was away on his Egyptian Campaign. Upon his return he was furious with her for spending so much money, as the house, at the time was 300,000 francs and needed massive renovation. She spent a fortune on the extensive changes she wrought but in the end it brought a great deal of happiness to the Bonapartes. Her objective with the garden ? “ To turn it into the most beautiful and curious garden in Europe, a model of good cultivation”. She planted rare and exotic plants, built a heated orangery containing 300 pineapple plants and eventually a greenhouse heated by dozens of stoves. The roses became the most famous aspect of her garden. The Empress had the Belgian artist Pierre Joseph Redouté record her roses and lilies, prints of which sell to this day.

Animals of all types were added, swans, gazelles, ostriches, zebras to name a few. After her divorce ( she could not produce an heir despite two children from her previous marriage, so Napoleon married Marie-Louise of Austria) she remained at her beloved Malmaison until her death in 1814. Napoleon did live there again after her death and after his defeat at Waterloo in 1815, before his exile to Saint Helena.

It is now a National Museum, open to the public and well worth a trip. But we do wonder at the tolerance of the population, who after ousting Henry XVIII, really permitted the Bonapartes to become royalty and spend every bit as much.

In addition to photos from Malmaison we have added those from the Musée Marmottan. This interesting museum is located in the 16^th arrondissement at the edge of the Jardin de Ranelagh. It is surrounded by some of the most beautiful Haussmann apartment buildings. Long known for its wealth the 16th is filled with parks, prestigious schools and ambassadorial homes, a favourite place of residence. It is the only arrondissement to be divided into two postal codes; one for the north portion and another for the south section. 75016 and 75116 are well recognized. In the Jardin de Ranelagh at the edge of which is the Marmottan, there is a monument to Jean de La Fontaine, a famous French poet and writer, It is made of bronze, by Charles Correia (1984), depicting La Fontaine with a fox and a raven at his feet. He was, of course, the writer of the fable Le Corbeau et Le Renard a morality poem about the fate of those who fall for flattery. It replaces another monument that paid tribute to the poet, made in 1891 by the sculptor Alphonse Dumilatre, which was melted down under the German occupation, in 1942. The foundations (with the stone bench) were preserved. The Marmottan was a mansion owned by the family of that name, who donated it as a museum, already filled with a marvelous family collection. Subsequent donations have ensured the house is filled with Impressionists work as well as other collections. Right now there is a exhibition of some 60 works from private collections around the world, some of which are rarely if ever seen.

And of course we saw Richard and Dan off last night at Gare Du Nord , on their way to the IBIS and CDG for early flights home to Canada today. We had a lovely Saturday and Sunday with them as they returned from their Italian trip with many stories and great photos. We believe they have had a grand trip and it was a treat to have them with us.

Malmaison on a Grey Day in January

Premier Sunday of the Month Entrance Fees Waived

The Most Beautiful Pool Table: Apparently Josephine Played Well

And Backgammon Table

Called the Gilded Room, it is True to Its Name

After Josephine's divorce from Napoleon the decor was lightened and modernized

This is original furniture in the Music room and the entire room remains as it once was.

The white and gold panels are the work of Delécluze, completed 1810-1811

These delicate panels vary in design

The Dining Room was decorated in the Pompeiian style in 1800 . The eight dancers painted on panels are by Louis Lafitte

Josephine, one of many portraits displayed at Malmaison

The Library contains this intriguing mechanical desk. When closed it becomes a simple circular table

The Library has many interesting elements including a hidden staircase to Napoleon's upper floor apartment

Hundreds of original volumes beautifully bound.

Tempus Fugit

This was considered "an ordinary bedroom".

The Clock Collection Alone is Fascinating

Interesting Detail Right Down to the Andirons

The Toilette Cabinet of Josephine. . discreetly closes up entirely.

Napoleon was a Handsome Man

Napoleon Crossing the Alps is the title given to the five versions of an oil on canvas equestrian portrait of Napoleon Bonaparte painted by the French artist Jacques-Louis David between 1801 and 1805. This one is resident in Malmaison

Napoleon Bonaparte Compass

Protractor, ruler used on many Campaigns

A Huge Woven Tapestry of Josephine made by the Famous Gobelins Company in Paris

Beautiful Porcelain Plates created by Sèvres, Expressly for Josephine

Botanical

Plant Depictions

Also an entire Dinner Service by Sèvres

Including Exquisite Soup Cups

A Magnificent Gobelins Tapestry

Josephine's Salon

Her Mirror and personal grooming cabinet

Her bed until her Death in May, 1814

Both Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte were beguiled by cabinetry that appeared as a simple exterior but opened to showcase neatly organized interiors or secret spaces.

Statue in Jardin de Ranelagh

Jean de la Fontaine, author of the fable The Fox and the Crow

Just for Fun....No Snow but this was Jardin de Ranelagh in a Snowstorm

White and Yellow Chrysanthemums, Gustave Caillebotte: Musée Marmottan

Two Women at a Piano, Gustave Caillebotte

Bouquet with Mangoes: Paul Gauguin ( the photo does not do justice to this gorgeous painting)

Commode - Secrétaire 1810

Lovely Details

Another Elegant Clock

Just the Item for the Mantel!

Napoleon Bonaparte, Premier Consul by Piat-Joseph Sauvage 1799

What Graceful Elements!

Allée de Sapins à Varengeville: Claude Monet

La Blanchisseuse: Toulouse Lautrec famously said" Make it True and Not Ideal"


	Caillebotte, Gustave; 1848-1894.	- "The bank at Petit Gennevilliers and the Seine", 1890.


	Caillebotte, Gustave; 1848-1894.	- "Déjeuner" . note the odd perspective and the appearance of the plate in the foreground. the young man in the painting is Gustave's younger brother who died 2 years later. Mère is at the table head.