Travels with Forty Roses: Time and Truth

The original Opera House in Lille was designed and built by Joseph Lequeux in 1785. So, opera has been a staple in this city for centuries. When that house burned in 1903 a new Opera was envisioned by Louis Marie Cordonnier, also the architect for the famed Chamber of Commerce building with the spectacular clock tower we are fortunate to look out upon. The Belle Époque design by Cordonnier is further enhanced by elaborate pediment relief by Hippolyte Lefébvre and, additionally, two bas relief panels, one by Alphonse-Amédée Cordonnier whose work is also in the Palais des Beaux Arts. I cannot find genealogy to show that the two were related but it seems likely, and the other by Hector Lemaire. The interior sculpture includes the work of Edgar-Henri Boutry.

During the Second World War the Germans commandeered furnishings and equipment within the theatre. After the 4-year occupation, the building was restored, reopened and rededicated, under the title of Grand Theatre, in 1923. And what a Grand Theatre it is. In the Flemish Belle Époque style the building is a presence within its city square. The steps leading to the doors are a favourite congregation point on sunny days and we have noticed speakers and demonstrations for various causes on those same steps. We had only glimpsed the interior ceilings at night when lights were on so last evening we attended an Opera there and enjoyed the full glory of the building. The place is magnificent and hopefully some of the photos below will allow you a glimpse, although my camera cannot capture the true colorations and depth. The Opera we attended is Handel’s, The Triumph of Time and Truth, and true to form this French version was staged in very modern, avant garde terms, right down to the ubiquitous French cigarettes. What was wonderful were the voices of the cast, and the orchestra, all first class. Also, notable to us, compared to Opera audiences in NYC, was the presence of a very youthful audience. The theater was packed with a mix of audience members but we thought predominately young people in their 20’s and thirties. Opera is alive and well. Ying Fang sang the roll of Bellezza, an excellent soprano and Franco Fagioli, a rare countertenor with amazing range and coloratura, was Placere. Anyhow, the music was excellent, the staging extreme and the orchestra, Le Concert d’Astrée under the direction of Emmanuelle Haîm superb. Lille calls itself the European Capitol of Culture and we can understand why given the quality of performances available to us. A glass of champagne and a Meert gaufre at intermission topped a lovely evening. Much to John’s delight, (as Opera, we can say is not his favourite entertainment), I had, by sheer accident booked seats in a box…they were less expensive for some reason as we had more space, movable chairs and an excellent view. That makes things much easier to endure for a less than enthusiastic fan. I owe him a big favour!

Anyhow, John is off today to Castelnaudry in the south of France to try his ICC and CEVNI Boatmaster exams to make at least one of us legal on the canals. My exam will be a future date...once I’ve learned the “prop-walk” of an 18M barge!