Canal Watching Etc.

As we await “the Barge” completion we are scouting out our routes, once we are living on board, and the “snag” list is cleared. (for those of you faithful and very much appreciated readers who don’t know what a snag list is, the definition from John is: “All systems adjusted to meet optimum performance”. My definition is simply all the stuff must work.)

We thought this week to give a small picture of the canals in the Lille area. The Canal Dunkerque-Escaut is a 202km long series of large canals from Dunkerque to Montagne-du-Nord. This busy route is also known as the liaison, La Liaison au Grand Gabarit, Canal au Grand Gabarit, Dunkerque-Escaut Waterway and Liaison Dunkerque-Escaut, as it is the main waterway from Dunkerque and the North Sea.

The Grand Gabarit (Large Gauge) canal route was created after the Second World War to accommodate very large commercial vessels – up to 143m long and 11m wide. At that time, existing canals were straightened and widened: locks, (ecluse) were enlarged. It is an impressive sight to see two or three huge barges waiting for a lock, or passing each other as they ply the waterway up and downstream.

The Canal de la Deûle which branches off the Dunkerque-Escaut, runs through the city of Lille and is one I walk along every day. It connects Bauvin to the Belgian border near Deûlemont and is approximately 40km with 3 locks. It is also called the liaison Bauvin-Lys. South of Bauvin, the canal continues as part of the Canal Dunkerque-Escaut until it reaches Douai. Parts of the Deûle were made navigable as early as the 13^th century. It winds through industrial areas and runs through residential areas and suburbs here in the city. There is a tow path alongside that runs the length, sometimes paved, sometimes hard packed and frequently used by runners, walkers and cyclists. The canal itself is shared by barges small and large and watersport enthusiasts. This time of year, hardy paddle boarders and rowers may be seen daily. Water birds abound and the life of the canal seems quietly separated from the busy street life of the city.

The heavy blue line is the Dunkerque-Escaut engineered canal with lighter blue branches being  navigable canals or canalized rivers.

This little line map shows the route of the Canal de la Deüle that runs through Lille. Various photos of this Canal appear below

But first a cup of hot chocolate ...an incomparable treat, dark, very hot and barely sweet. 

Having just locked through the immense lock at the stern, this barge moves slowly upstream.

Beautiful quiet section in the city center and a favourite running path

Large barges waiting to lock through

Flotsam? Jetsam?

A swan

Carrying Gravel and a Car

Fast paddler!

Hardy Paddle  Boarders...Ice on the tow path puddles but these guys don't care. 

Near our little apartment...note the plane trees. These are large old ones but along suburban tow paths new ones have been planted to help hold the banks as well as esthetics. Just like our elms these trees are being attacked by a fungus. Specialists identified the fungus Ceratocystis platani, in 2006, which is believed to have been brought to France in contaminated ammunition boxes during the Second World War. Thousands of these beautiful trees have been cut and burned and replaced with various species including oak. May some survive!

The Citadel contains a small zoo that can be seen from a bridge crossing the Deûle where I watch giant pelicans being fed their morning fish. What a noise!

A little gem...a small park with every possible type of fruit tree beautifully espaliered in many extraordinary and unique shapes. Oh, to be here in blossom or produce time.

 Louis Marie Cordonnier designed the Chamber of Commerce building in Lille, including his signature clock tower in the Flemish Renaissance Revival style. The clock plays at each quarter hour, here caught in the evening sun.

 

Off for a hot chocolate......until next week!