Today is Armistice Day. Here in France the bells tolled for
a very long time last night filling the air with echoing sound and causing the
birds to perform in magnificent murmuration.
Today also mirrors
the weather we usually see occur on Remembrance Day at home. Cold and in our
case wet and rainy.
In France, this day is called Armistice de la Première
Guerre Mondiale. As an official public holiday, schools, banks, offices and
most shops are closed. In common with many other countries, the day is marked
by one minute of silence at 11:00, when people reflect on the sacrifices made
in wartime. The day has also become a general mourning for the dead of all wars
in which France has fought since WWI.
At an official level, the day is marked by parades and
speeches. Old military costumes and vehicles may be worn and paraded through
cities and towns. People gather at the various war memorials which exist in
almost every town to honor their local dead. Wreaths, garlands and flowers are
placed at these memorials and at plaques honoring resistance fighters. These
plaques are a common feature of many French cities. Special church services of
remembrance are also held. We have noticed in many small villages the memorials
for the “enfants de ville” usually are decorated with fresh flowers. So, it
seems the dead are not just remembered on Armistice.
Major ceremonies of mourning are also arranged at important
battle sites across France, with the President of the République appearing at a
different one each year. The French national flag is often flown at half-mast
or when carried in military parades it may be carried diagonally, rather than
upright. One such site is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, which is under the
Arc de Triomphe, in Paris. This tomb contains the body of an unidentified
soldier who died in the especially bloody Battle of Verdun. The body was buried
in the tomb on November 11, 1920. Three years later a flame was lit at the tomb
as an eternal flame of remembrance and it has burned their ever since. This
tomb is taken as a symbol of all who died in World War I.
Privately people visit war grave sites and cemeteries to
tend the graves of dead soldiers and family members. Cities may put on special
buses to provide transport to more remote cemeteries. Chrysanthemums are the
flowers most often placed on the graves, so much so that in France that common
garden flower is almost never seen
outside of that time, or outside cemeteries. We have been curious to know why so
many chrysanthemums in every colour have loaded the shelves in markets and
floral shops these past weeks. I am so
glad I did not buy pots for the boat!
Although both mark the end of wars, the mood at Armistice
Day is significantly more somber than on Victory Day. This likely reflects the
differences between the two wars. World War II is viewed as the defeat of an
evil regime and the end of a brutal occupation. In contrast, World War I saw 16
million dead and 20 million wounded in a war about imperial power, not
morality. It ended with victory for the Allies, but not joy.
No joy for us today either as we had rented a car for the
day to attend a vernissage this evening in a nearby village for a local artist.
John bicycled out to the rental company early this morning through the rain
only to find it fermé. One could ask how it was possible to rent a car for pick
up when the day of pick-up was to be closed? C’est la vie. A rather disgruntled
and soaked Monsieur returned for another good strong coffee. Much to his
delight our neighbour saved the day as the Brazilian Formula I practice is on
television today. And some very good words for the French bureaucracy that worked
wonders for us this week, in the matter of our visas. No need for a long drive
to Toulouse! We visited the local Prefecture and explained our situation in
slow and simple French, which was miraculously understood and we are now in possession
of our temporary Carte De Sejour. It may
have helped that our wonderful French teacher Vanessa came to lunch aboard and
went with us. She had only to clarify one question and I think she was secretly
rather pleased her students could manage. Our official version should arrive in
December, but in the meantime, we are now able to travel outside the country
and come back legally, carrying this precious document. Despite the rain and
rental mix ups it’s been a very fine
week.
 |
This was taken in Compeigne weeks ago. As you can see the flowers are fresh and the list of names very long.
|
 |
A series of fast photos taken of the Starling Murmuration last evening. |
 |
There was a drizzling rain and the birds seemed to be intoxicated as they whirled and swirled |
 |
My neighbour and I watched in fascination as massive flocks flew into each other to form larger shapes |
 |
St. Etienne Cathedral last night in the rain |
No comments:
Post a Comment