Travels with Forty Roses: Haut-Kœnigsbourg

On a chilly but sunny day early last week we drove out of Strasbourg to this high castle. The Haut-Koenigsbourg is Alsatian from the XI century. The castle stands high in the Vosges, in the French commune of Orschwiller in the Bas-Rhin department in the Grand Est region, within the historical and cultural region of Alsace.

The current name of the castle, Haut-Kœnigsbourg , is the result of the adaptation of the German name Hohkönigsburg which translates as “high castle of the king”.

Of course, it is closed for COVID-19 as well as the winter months, but we could walk around the immense structure and enjoy the spectacular views. It was a clear day, and we were the only people there except for a family of three backpacking their dog on the steep hiking trail. We could remove our masks and breath the crisp fresh air and feel free for the first time in weeks. We would love to be able to see inside as the building is restored and usually welcomes ½ a million visitors a year. Now, on this cold crystal day we could see across the Alsace valley, the Rhin, the German border to the Montagnes de la Forêt Noire and beyond to the snowy tips of the Alps.

The first mention of this place in recorded history is in 1147 and refers to the name then as château des Hohenstufen. To strengthen the power of the Hohenstaufen in Alsace, Frédéric le Borgne created a line of château defense. It is claimed he built many castles and some of them on land that did not belong to him. Apparently, he built so many that it is said of him “he constantly has a castle hanging from his horse's tail.” Which we thought was a descriptive expression.

Over the centuries the location, with structures large and sometimes derelict, Haut-Kœnigsbourg passed from hand to hand. From brigand knights to the family Thersteins (a gift from the Habsburgs) in 1479 whereupon it was reconstructed and equipped for defense from artillery. During the Thirty Years War, in 1633, sieges and pillaging by the Swedish Army resulted in massive damage and the site fell into severe neglect.

Along came 1899 and Kaiser Wilhelm II and the town of Sélestat donated the site to him. Following this gift, the entire structure was restored, a controversy at the time and still to this day, by a Berlin architect Bodo Ebhardt, based on the castle as it was in 1479. Many disputed the reconstruction and would have preferred the ruins. However, today the local community appreciates the fact it was accomplished as the financial contribution to the area is significant. It seems that everyone loves a castle, especially one with such a marvelous, elevated location. The thought of the original construction in the 12th century boggles the mind due to the height materials had to be carried. What an amazing feat it must have been.

In 1918 after WWI, the castle was returned to France and where it is classified as a National monument.

We walked the steep perimeter in the snow and gazed at the massive high walls and towers above us enjoying the pine scented surrounding forest. Not a sound but the wind in the trees and the imagined life so long ago.

On our way back down, the road was icy, and we drove carefully on the hairpin curves. On a relatively straight stretch across in front of us leaped 6 or 7 wild boars with bristled coats and heavy tusks. What a shock and surprise. It was fortunate we did not hit one as those fellows are solid! One very small guy turned back, and we got a poor photo of him hiding in the trees These boars are hunted in the area and made into a delicious regional sausage. We certainly know they are fleet of foot despite their size.